The model was born within the fragrance store À la Reine des Fleurs, based in 1774. It owes its title to perfumer Louis Toussaint Piver, who in 1813 purchased the place the place he had began as an apprentice. The model developed and opened branches overseas as quickly as 1817, earlier than changing into a provider to the Emperor, in 1858.
In 1896, Jacques Roucher, director of the Paris Opera, took over the corporate. As a visionary, he foresaw that the current use of chemical synthesis would modernize perfumery and surrounded himself with artistic chemists. The outcome was Trèfle Incarnat (1898), one of many nice successes of the Belle Époque period. He developed the model by way of the expansion of advertizing and elevated the variety of branches on the worldwide stage. On the daybreak of the Twenties, the French firm, whose motto was “L.T. Piver perfumes the world”, was one of many few corporations that generated greater than half of its turnover overseas.
The model lived by way of the a long time following the warfare, specifically by counting on the success of its well-known hair “lotions” derived from its perfumes. In 1967, the corporate was awarded the French Legion of Honour ornament for its longevity and the standard of its merchandise. Nevertheless, like many aged manufacturers, it by no means actually returned to its glory days. In 1989, L.T. Piver was purchased by the Franco-Algerian Amouyal household from the Rhône-Poulenc chemical group.
Stable foundations for an anticipated renewal
In June 2022, the model caught Nelly Chenelat’s consideration. After 30 years working on the earth of fragrance at Cartier, Mugler, or YSL, in varied positions, she aspired to a private, artistic venture. She found L.T. Piver and was instantly seduced by its heritage and creativity, and the superb worth for cash of its made in France merchandise. The proprietor, Éric Amouyal, agreed to promote the model.
To spice up the model’s renewal, Nelly Chenelat has determined to depend on the olfactory richness of fragrances that survived the previous few years with none communication help, thus opening up quite a few views. L.T. Piver’s flourishing heritage, a supply of inspiration and a great foundation for storytelling, represents one other asset, as is its international dimension, because it sells over 2 million items worldwide (within the Caribbean, america, the Center-East, Cambodia, and many others.). Along with all this, the brand new proprietor says, L.T. Piver stands out because of its high quality craftsmanship.
By 1860, the model had three factories in Paris, Aubervilliers, and Grasse. Nonetheless in operation, the final one carries out uncooked materials mixing, focus maturation, alcohol integration, and maceration. Because the L.T. Piver fragrance firm has all the time sourced its personal components, its inside know-how provides a singular olfactory signature, whereas guaranteeing the confidentiality of formulation.
“The notion of mixing is important for the model, as a result of it includes maturation or maceration instances that impression the fragrance’s olfactory rendering”, explains Joëlle Lerioux, chosen by Nelly Chenelat as her in-house perfumer.
The range of the L.T. Piver catalogue is as inspiring because the model’s craftsmanship. Ranging from the start of the twentieth century, the corporate developed physique and hair cleaning soap, scented pastilles, ointments, brillantine, but additionally hair lotions impressed by its perfumes, Rêve d’Or, Pompeïa and Héliotrope Blanc, that are nonetheless accessible at the moment.
“L.T. Piver’s providing is de facto beneficiant, it’s aimed toward a variety of consumers, no matter their buying energy”, explains Nelly Chenelat. “It’s a magnificence and well-being perfumery,” provides Joëlle Lerioux.
Strengthening and growing a singular heritage
The target is to claim and perpetuate the masstige positioning of the present vary, whereas growing new, extra “area of interest” fragrances. Héliotrope Blanc, Cuir de Russie or Rêve d’Or, cheap references standard with fragrance lovers, will subsequently stay kind of on the similar worth.
The brand new merchandise, nevertheless, can have a premium positioning, and new extracts or fragrances can be designed. It’s a artistic work in its personal proper, drawing on the model’s heritage, for which Joëlle Lerioux endeavours to paraphrase the olfactory signature, to not betray its DNA, whereas preserving its high quality. This continuity is predicated specifically on the model’s craftsmanship, which was handed on, and on its autonomy.
The heritage of this historic home may even assist develop a variety of skincare merchandise impressed from the outdated merchandise, with formulation up to date to the newest requirements and tastes.
By means of L.T. Piver, Nelly Chenelat and Joëlle Lerioux hope to advertise a top quality, standard perfumery. An “old style perfumery which includes taking the time to make one thing stunning”. The continued initiatives are anticipated to return to market subsequent yr. They may be previewed on the TFWA 2023, in Cannes.