My mother and I are nonetheless buzzing from our Paris journey final week — it was her second time visiting since she lived there 4 many years in the past, and the town was even lovelier than she’d remembered. Right here’s a recap of the place we stayed, ate and walked in case you’re planning a visit (or simply wanderlusting, as one does), and naturally please add your insights within the feedback…
My mother arrived barely later within the week, so for the primary few days, my buddy Claire and her eight-year-old daughter Elle had been my journey companions. We rented a two-bedroom within the Marais, with picket beams and massive home windows. Our place was splurgy, however you too can discover fairly spots within the space for lower than $175/night time, together with a stunning walk-up, a sunny flat and a comfortable studio; or you possibly can lease a personal room in somebody’s condominium — like this and this — which I’ve finished a number of instances earlier than, together with in San Francisco this previous December and it has all the time labored out nicely. (Simply ensure that to test for constructive critiques!)
The primary day, we took a looooong lovely stroll alone the Seine. Paris is such a beautiful metropolis, it’s such a deal with to only ramble and soak it up. We additionally went to the Tuileries, the place Elle jumped on the cool in-ground trampolines (and I started recognizing Rivedroite luggage, haha).
At night time, we had dinner with Claire’s good buddy Cassi, who has lived in Paris for many years. She introduced us to Le Sq. Trousseau, a neighborhood bistro proper throughout from a small park. We sat right down to radishes and butter on the desk, then shared escargots and cheeseburgers with comté. We performed tic tac toe on the brown paper tablecloth when the youngsters bought stressed, however everybody was thrilled when the chocolate mousse arrived — it was decadently wealthy but by some means mild?
The subsequent day, we wandered across the Marais, which has nice boutiques, together with Papier Tigre, St. James, Ailleurs, Bonton, Rendez-Vous, and — one neighborhood over — Landline. The dependable crowdpleaser is Merci, a three-story boutique with garments, residence decor, magnificence, and presents. How cool are the fruit and vegetable candles? Additionally they had scorching canine candles and grapes cleaning soap (should you, like me, get weirdly delighted by food-shaped issues).
We then strolled over to L’As Du Fallafel. Their signature sandwich — silky eggplant and crispy falafel with cucumber, cabbage, and tomato tucked right into a heat pita, then doused with tahini — has a cult following; the road took 20 minutes however was value it. That mentioned, some CoJ readers and David Lebovitz insist that Maoz and Miznon are even higher, however we didn’t have time to test, so possibly we must always all return and do a style check. #falafelwars
The Marais is full of life and enjoyable and buzzy, and we had a good time.
After a pair days, my mother arrived!!! We moved to a three-bedroom condominium throughout the river, within the sixth. (Different fairly spots within the space: an enthralling studio, a candy rooftop condominium, and a well-reviewed personal room.) The household who lived there had kids, so the condominium was crammed with board video games, toys, books and magazines, which is all the time a deal with. The constructing additionally had a terrifyingly small elevator, which, evidently, I didn’t take.
(Nonetheless, it was not as small because the elevator final time I went!!!)
My mother was shockingly not drained regardless of not having the ability to sleep on the in a single day flight, so we headed to the Luxembourg Gardens, one of the crucial magical locations in Paris. You possibly can chill out on inexperienced chairs across the fountain and hearken to folks chatting and birds chirping and really feel the solar in your face.
Elle rented a ship to push round with a stick (if it floats farther into the fountain, you simply look forward to the wind to push it again), and I liked this photograph of preteen boys subsequent to very-much-an-eight-year-old!
We then walked over to the close by Marin Montagut retailer, which enchanted us with baguette pens and illustrated tea towels. (How cute is the dude who owns it?)
That night time, we handled ourselves to an old-school connoisseur French dinner at Allard, full with a mustardy cucumber salad, crusty bread and butter, frog legs, and duck with inexperienced olives. VERY scrumptious.
One bonus of touring with somewhat woman is having somebody who’s equally enthusiastic about lipsticks and reminds you to reapply!
The subsequent day, my mother and I walked just a few blocks to…
…the Musée Rodin, the place we noticed the well-known Kiss and, in fact, the Thinker. I liked what Rodin mentioned about him: “What makes my Thinker suppose is that he thinks not solely along with his mind, along with his knitted forehead, his distended nostrils and compressed lips, however with each muscle of his arms, again, and legs, along with his clenched fist and gripping toes.” The toes! Watch out, they could break your coronary heart.
Since considered one of one of the best components of journeys is usually doing nothing, one night time we had a picnic dinner at residence and watched The Fugitive, which is such a enjoyable thriller. (As Lindy West mentioned — unironically — in her sensible ebook Shit Truly, “Objectively, there’s just one good film, and it’s The Fugitive.”)
However one restaurant we reserved means forward of time: Mokonuts, a gem of a spot within the eleventh, run by a pair with two daughters. They’re open just for lunch as a result of they head residence at 5 p.m. to be with their children — “whereas this may be uncommon in New York or Los Angeles, it’s radical in Paris,” says the NYTimes. The meal was seasonal, imaginative and completely pleasant — the only finest chew we had in Paris (all of us agreed) was the labneh above, with olive oil, za’atar and lettuce, with tender bread.
On our final morning, my mother and I walked to the legendary cheese store, Barthélemy. Run by Nicole Barthélemy — a cheesemonger from an extended line of cheesemongers — the shop smells gloriously smelly and options cheeses of all shapes, milks and sizes. You may as nicely spin in a circle and level; you possibly can’t go unsuitable.
Our ultimate night time, we took a ship journey with Inexperienced River Cruises, which had been advisable by CoJ readers (thanks!). We introduced cheese and bread and grapes, they usually served chilly white wine, and we embarked down the Seine previous Notre Dame and Jardin des Plantes and the Eiffel Tower. What a technique to finish the journey. My mother was in heaven, and the night — and complete week — felt like a present.
Since I all the time love seeing what folks deliver residence from holidays, right here was my haul, haha. (Pasta blocks and a child’s costume from Bonton, a toddler’s striped sweater from Petit Bateau, cleaning soap from Merci, a mug and baguette pens from Marin Montagut, goodies from Alain Ducasse, and little toys from Landline.)
Just a few different Paris spots we love, however aren’t pictured: Chez Janou for SUCH a enjoyable dinner spot (make a reservation over the cellphone or present up earlier than they open at 7 p.m.); Benchy for very cool sandwiches; Dreamin Man for excellent espresso and a laid-back scene; Free Persephone for fantastic massages and manicure/pedicures; the Bourse de Commerce-Pinault Assortment for art work; and the long-lasting sights just like the Louvre, Musée D’Orsay and Eiffel Tower.
Thanks a lot for studying! I promise I’ll cease speaking about Paris now lol. Please share your recs beneath, should you’d like…
P.S. 12 readers share their solo journey pictures, and what’s your #1 journey tip?